Wednesday, November 1, 2023

Silk Strawberries for the Strawberry Sacque (La Fraise Robe a la Francaise)

 One month in the Saint Louis Historical Sewing Society the question of the month was;

“What do you start on first? Dress or trim?”

I was taken aback.




Starting on the trim first?? Was that even an option? The idea had certainly never crossed my mind!

But the more I thought about it, the more sense it made - make the complicated trim before you’re worn out, burnt out, and stressed out by the immanent deadline.




Within the week I began making the strawberries to go on my long dreamed of 1780ish Robe a la Francaise. (And it’s a good thing too, because if I hadn’t made those strawberries first, I’m pretty sure my gown would have been strawberry-less at the ball!)

First things first, I had to pick some red silk from my stash. I had a bit of pink silk (the same that I used for the bodice of this dress and the accents on my mom’s mother of the bride dress) which I thought paired really well with my striped silk. I decided I would use the pink for the bows on the stomacher and sleeves of gown, and perhaps a few "accent" strawberries on my skirt. 



I have a couple 1 to 3 yard cuts of red silk in my stash, but none of those were quite the right shade when placed next to my striped silk, pink silk, and the real actual strawberries I would be attempting to replicate in silk. So I dug deeper into my silk stash.


My silk dresser

I unearthed a red silk blouse, which I picked up out of a "free" bin at a thrift store several years ago. 



It was the perfect shade!



I pulled out a seam ripper and began dismantling.




Once dismantled enough, I cut the ties and collar pieces up to make strawberries.




I started by making a bunch of little cones.


I used ivory silk Gutermann thread to embroider a bunch of French Knots onto each cone to make strawberry seeds.



Some of these French Knots were done well, others. . . well, they got the job done!


Once embroidered, each strawberry was stuffed with a bunch of little fabric scraps.


So many little fabric scraps!


Then the top edge of each strawberry was gathered up, and sewn closed.


Ready for the strawberry tops to go on!


When I began on my gown itself, almost exactly 2 months before the ball, all my red strawberries were pretty well done, and the pink strawberries were on their way!


The pink strawberries were stuffed and embroidered a little at a time in-between other hand sewing projects. And the day before the ball, I had 24 silk strawberries in need of their tops.


After considering several different green silks from my stash for the strawberry tops, I decided to use the tealish green silk left over from my mom's mother of the groom dress. (And my Rilla Blythe evening gown). It wasn't the most realistic of color choices, but /i liked how it paired with the loopy trim I was using on my gown.



I folded little silk scraps the way one would fold paper for paper snow flakes, and cut a rough leaf shape.



The shape and number of leaves wasn't quite perfect, but as I was in the final 36 hours before the ball and still had a bunch of trimming left to do on my gown, I didn't have time to worry about that!



I sewed a small circle of running stitches in the center of each leaf thing and gathered them up.



The gathered green silk thing that-maybe-resembles-a-strawberry-top was sewn to the top of each strawberry.



Most of these strawberry tops got sewn on while I was riding in the car as my husband drove me to Walmart to buy make up and jewelry for that evening. ("Oh, you have to go into town for something? Could you pretty please take me along and drop me off at the store? I need to go, but I've got too much sewing to finish in the next 4 hours to take the time to do it. But if you drive, I can sew on the way to and from!)



Once the strawberries were all topped, they needed to be sewn into bunches of three to trim my skirt.



This "bunching on the strawberries" happened on the way to ball set-up that afternoon. (Thankfully my husband was driving again.)



I used a green silk thread (Which amazingly matched my strawberry tops perfectly. Thank you excessive fabric and thread stash!) to attach the strawberries together.


At the ball venue, after everything was set up and decorated to perfection, I sewed the strawberry bunches to my skirt before donning my gown.



There are 3 bunches of strawberries down either side of the gown skirt, along the front opening. There are also supposed to be 2 bunches of strawberries on the petticoat. However, as I was quite out of time, I decided to skip those for the ball. 



I'll add them before I wear the dress again!



The strawberries were certainly the perfect finishing touch on my gown!

In my next blog post I'll share all about how the gown came together!

Friday, October 27, 2023

The Strawberry Sacque (La Fraise Robe a la Francaise) at the Ball

 59 buttons.

Approximately 20 yards of fabric. 

24 silk strawberries.

Countless hours of sewing.

And the loss of my sanity (atleast some of it!)



My gown was literally finished at the venue (and "finished" could be an overstatement). . . but. . .

I got us outfitted for the ball! 




Fetes Historiques de Saint Louis to be exact!

We danced, and ate yummy deserts, socialized, and had a fantastic time!




Let’s back up a bit. . .

I bought the tickets for the ball about a year and a half ago, almost as soon as they were released for members of the Saint Louis Historical Sewing Society, but the plans for my gown started well before that. Actually, those plans began even before I met the handsome gentleman who attended the ball with me.




November of 2019 (according to a receipt found in my email) I bought 11 yards of stripped silk taffeta off somebody’s Instagram destash, specifically for the purpose of an elaborate, floofy, 100% handsewn, Robe a la Francaise (or Sacque). 




Earlier that year I’d made my cotton, 100% machine sewn, sacque, and I’d been dreaming of an amazing silk gown ever since. When I found a gorgeous striped silk of the right amount for the right price, I snatched it up! And started day dreaming about the gown. . .




How would I trim it? What decade was I going for? Would I have enough fabric for all the ideas running through my head?

I spent hours on Pinterest narrowing down my ideas.

I quickly decided I wanted a sacque with buttons down the front of the stomacher - this is called a compare front - and it narrowed down my dates range. Compare fronts were in style in the 1770’s and 1780’s. 




Why did I want the buttons? Well, first off, I just like the look of them. Second, I really don’t like pinning myself into gowns. I know a lot of people love the adjustability of pinning their 18th century gowns closed, but personally? I just find it to be a pain. Buttons I would have! (And yes, this is why there are buttons on my Pet en L'air and hooks and eyes down the front of my Caraco.)


1775-1780 Robe a la Francaise
Metropolitan Museum of Art



With this decided, I started specifically looking at 1770's and 80's gowns and portraits on Pinterest and started a board to narrow down my ideas. I fell in love with the gowns trimmed in floofy sheer material. 


1770-1780 Robe a la Francaise
Cincinnati Art Museum




Thus, in June of 2020 (once again, according to the receipt I found in my email) I ordered 3 yards of floofy peach silk organza from Ensembles of the Past to trim this gown I would eventually be making.



And I kept browsing Pinterest for inspiration as I tried to mentally nail down my trim design. Then one day I happened upon it.


Queen Charlotte
Thomas Gainsborough, circa 1781

The floof. The trim. The buttons on the stomacher. And were those pinecones dangling from her skirt?!?!?

I decided they were pinecones. And I fell in love!

This was the dress I would re-create for myself. . . 

Only, rather than pinecones decorating the skirt, I would do strawberries!



Strawberries would be just the thing with the pinky red stripes in my fabric. I've always loved strawberries. In fact, I dressed up as a strawberry for Halloween when I was three. (Sorry, I don't have a picture to prove it, but my mom and grandma made the costume for me and I remember it vividly.)

Strawberries would be perfect!

It was all set in my mind, ready to go, about 3 years before the ball took place. . .


 
And about 3 months before the ball I started sewing - beginning with silk strawberries!


Which I will share all about in my next blog post!